New sealcoating can preserve the resilience of asphalt surfaces and help hide small cracks, patches and rough spots as well as making traffic lines more visible. Sealcoat that is applied correctly makes your asphalt look cleaner because rain washes dirt and debris easily away from the smooth, non-porous surface.

Sealcoating helps protect the asphalt from the sun as well as the harmful effects of chemical spills such as oil and gasoline. Asphalt sealcoating fills surface voids, which in turn reduces exposure to oxygen and UV rays and reduces the depth to which oil or gas can penetrate the asphalt.

Sealcoating acts as a waterproofing agent, minimizing the rate at which water enters the asphalt. Sealcoating apshalt prevents the seepage of water and moisture from rain and snow, therefore preventing damage from freeze and thaw cycles.

Sealcoating provides an attractive black surface this is ideal (on the commercial side) for painting lines and other markers. Sealcoat brings a dark black color to the asphalt.  The blacker it is, the more heat the asphalt draws from the sun. The hotter the asphalt gets, the more pliable it becomes, which helps it to withstand traffic without cracking.

Sealcoating costs pennies a square foot compared to the dollars needed to repair or replace damaged asphalt. The intrusion of water into asphalt accelerates its deterioration and is strongly related to asphalt distress.

The price of asphalt will always be affected by crude oil prices, which fluctuate when supplies vary.

To obtain a professional review and estimate for your asphalt pavement surface contact Rogers Pavement Maintenance in Cincinnati (513-791-9001).

Aside from pricing, first do your research on the contractor’s you contact. Why consider hiring a contractor who doesn’t measure up in these basic categories; full liability and worker’s compensation insurance? The contractor should be able to provide you with proof of coverage if asked. Additionally, ask for a list of recent jobs similar to your project as a point of reference on the contractor’s performance and ask how the long the contractor has been in business.  Will they be performing the work in-house or will they farm-out the job to sub-contractors?

To make valid comparisons, solicit bids that have common denominators.  Bids that don’t include the scope of work including job preparation and material details are pointless.

Well that all depends…A properly constructed and maintained asphalt driveway will probably last 20 to 30 years. “Properly constructed” is a big factor here. Too often a driveway is the last thing on the list when constructing a new home. All to often, if there have been overruns in construction costs the driveway will “pay the price”. As contractors it’s not unusual to hear a homebuilder say “we only have $XXX left for paving the drive. What can you do for that much?” Of course that amount is usually less than what is actually needed to do a proper job. Many times premature structural failures in driveways are caused by this scenario or in older homes perhaps the previous owner was only concerned about low price, not high quality, if they had the drive replaced. Unfortunately, it’s often impossible to tell how well the driveway was constructed after the fact. One tip would be if a new home driveway was not guaranteed against any structural defects for at least 2 years, or if ther are areas that look rough or that hold water. The second part of this is “properly maintained”. If asphalt pavements didn’t need maintenance your city street department would be out of a job as would thousands of pavement maintenance contractors. As we get to answers to some more common questions, proper maintenance will become self-explanatory.

Why should I sealcoat my driveway?

Asphalt pavements are made up of stone (aggregate) fine stone or sand, and asphalt binders. The binders is what gives the pavement it’s black appearance and is the “glue” that holds everything together. Often I joking answer this question in  person by asking “why do you paint the wood on your house?” It’s obvious of course; to preserve the wood and protect it from damage from the elements. The same is true of asphalt pavements. Have you noticed that new asphalt is jet black but soon begins to fade and in a year or two has turned gray? This is oxidation. The effects of the sun and rain/snow oxidizing the asphalt binders in the pavement. Given enough time, the pavement becomes brittle and has less resistance to the loads placed on it. This can lead to a multitude of problems.

Asphalt is a petroleum product so any other petroleum derivatives that contact it will dissolve into the asphalt, weakening or dissolving the asphalt’s “glue like” properties. These substances commonly include motor oil, transmission/power steering/brake fluids, gasoline, and perhaps household solvents like some cleaners. It’s common to see asphalt damaged by concrete cleaning products used on a sidewalk but rinsed onto a driveway. And the other common products mentioned can come from anywhere; a leaking car, oiling the chain on the kid’s bikes, spills while servicing the lawnmower, the list is endless. A good quality sealcoating will protect the asphalt pavement from all these damaging factors while providing the curb appeal of a new-looking black appearance. It’s often overlooked that sealcoating not only seals the harmful elements out but seals the beneficial properties of the asphalt cement in. Many years of research has proven that proper maintenance including sealcoating can double the life of an asphalt pavement. (Sealcoating is new by any means. The first sealcoating materials were developed in the 1930’s for Standard Oil to help protect the pavement in their service stations.)

What about those cracks in my driveway?

Those need immediate attention. A host of problems leading to major failure can result frm the small start of a few cracks left unattended. You may wonder why we address this apart from sealcoating. Sealcoating is for sealing an asphalt surface. It does nothing of value for cracks larger than a “hairline” or in layman’s terms the size of a pencil lead or larger. Actual cracks in the pavement require specialized crack sealant materials. Left alone cracks allow moisture to penetrate the asphalt surface. Water expands as it freezes, so moisture in the cracks does the greatest damage in the winter months. But before you breath a sigh of relief because you live in a warm area, moisture pentration does great damage to pavement no matter what the temperature. It just does more damage faster in freezing conditions. “Homeowner grade” crack sealants are always cold applied and must dry. (Contractors use a superior method with hot-applied materials that set as soon as they cool). The main issue in sealing cracks is that they MUST be clean, dry, and have no vegetation present prior to any sealing. Homeowners should always shop for a sealant containing the highest possible amount of rubber. The rubber allows the sealant to expand and contract with the pavement. Cheaper crack “fillers” are hard when cured and as the pavement moves they will separate from the asphalt, and allow moisture to pentrate again.

What about those ugly stains?

Be careful. One way to prevent stains is to sealcoat the pavement in the first place, but depending on the type of stain the cure can be more damaging than the illness. Be careful to read the label of any “driveway cleaning” product. Many contain solvents. ANY solvents will damage the asphalt pavement and should be avoided, even if the product says it’s for driveways. Often for oily stains the best approach is a biodegradable cleaner (like Simple Green or similar), if those are not readily available plain dishwashing soap will do. Mix a soapy water solution, apply to the stain and let stand for a few minutes, then get a good scrub brush and apply a liberal amount of “elbow grease” and rinse thoroughly. Take note if the scrub brush begins to loosen stones in the asphalt. If this happens, stop and rinse. This is an indication that whatever stained the driveway has already weakened the asphalt and you could cause more damage trying to remove it. Contractors hvae a variety of products made for priming stains before applying sealcoating, however these may not be available to home owners and depending on the type of stain, sealcoating may not adhere to the stained areas. This is a situation where you might want to do a test area if you were sealing yourself to see if the sealer would adhere (apply according to directions, wait 2 -3 days, then scuff at the sealer with your shoe or a stiff brush. If it loosens from the stain you may need professional help.)

To extend the life of your court, it should be recoated by a Professional Contractor, every five to six years. Usually a two-coat system is required to re-texture the surface.

As a court owner, Property Manager or Maintenance Director there are routine maintenance items you can do to keep your court in good condition:

• Grass should be trimmed below grade of the court surface perimeter to allow for water flow and to stop any growth through the surface.
• Shrubs and surrounding trees should be cut back at least 10′ (if not more) to allow sun on the surface all day to prevent mildew.
• Leaves, pine needles, and debris should be cleaned off regularly (especially in the fall).
• Posts and nets should be removed annually (in the winter) and inspected. Posts should be greased and painted as needed. Typically, nets are replaced every five to six years pending use, vandalism, etc.
• Fencing should require very little maintenance, but again inspect it regulary for vandalism and also gate and latch adjustments.

Cracks are a common occurence in the midwest and range from hairline to structural cracking.

Hairline Cracks happen in many different lengths. The cause can come from many different factors such as foreign matter (worms, leaves, pine needles, clay sub-surface), improper mix design, solvent type coatings and improper seal coats. One method to slow the cracking and maintain the problem is to use a rubberized crackfiller for cracks that are 1/4″ or less in width.

Structural Cracks are usually because of a failure in the subbase. There are several possible methods of repair depending on the extent or severity of the cracks and an evaluation of the site to determine which method suits the type of crack. One methond is to clean then fill the crack with an acrylic latex patch. When hard a rubberized crack filler is used before any color coating is applied. This method is a short term solution and will most likely last approximately 12 to 18 months.

Resurface or Reconstruct is understandably a budgetary concern. Resurfacing, when looked at as maintenance rather than a permanent cure, is the most cost effective method of restoration. In any given year, only a very small percentage of court owners can afford major reconstruction work. The extent of work your court needs when it comes to reconstruction will depend on how well it was built originally. Some courts can get by with a new lift of asphalt overlay on top of the existing layer of asphalt. Others may need all the old asphalt removed or pulverized and additional gravel installed to insure a long-lasting, quality court. Each court’s need will be different and on-site inspection will be necessary in order to determine the best course of action.

It can’t be stressed enough, Do Your Homework.

A Professional Contractor is qualified, insured, carries workers compensation, and should have a list of references. You as a consumer whether you’re a homeowner, a business owner, or a manager for a business, it is within your rights to request copies of these documents before signing on the dotted line.

A Professional Contractor pays taxes and insures their workers.

Professional Contractors follow established guidelines within their individual industries, a “code of conduct” per say.  You should be provided with a written quote on company letterhead, listing the company name, address, and phone. 

Buyer Beware of the contractor who gives you a price you can’t pass up and can schedule your job within 24 hours.  These contractors are called professional scammers or gypsies. Many times they come disguised as a subcontractor, but what they’re actually doing is work on the side or under the table, stealing leads, under bidding the job, using equipment and products from the company they’re working for, which is illegal. 

And on the flip-side, yes it’s a sad truth that consumers (both residentially and commercially) are taken advantage of by the unethical practices of these subcontractors, but these practices also affect the livelihood of the Professional Contractor. 

As you can imagine, a Professional Contractor has spent not only years perfecting their craft, but money on education and on building their business, from buying or leasing office space to purchasing equipment and materials.  When a job is awarded to anyone other than a Professional Contractor, by low-balling, it’s really taking money out of the pocket of the professional.

So when you’re seeking bids for a new driveway, a patio, new roof, replacement windows, or whatever your improvement may be, remember to Do Your Homework and select only a Professional Contractor.

To learn more about what to look for when selecting a paving contractor, visit www.rogerspavement.com

Potholes occur when moisture filters its way through cracks in the pavement and settles below the sub-base. As temperatures drop the moisture freezes and expands beneath the surface. As temperatures rise, the moisture thaws (contracts) leaving a void and weakening the pavement, which eventually caves-in causing a pothole.There are various methods in repairing potholes, but to make a long-lasting pothole repair the best method utilizes several stages of repair. Mark perimeter of damaged area and sawcut or jackhammer approximately 1 foot around the pothole.

• After the area is sawcut, breakout and remove the damaged asphalt material and all subgrade material until you reach a firm base.
• Backfill and compact this area using a crushed aggregate, then apply a tack coat to the inside perimeter of the sawcut.
• Install hotmix into the damaged area making sure to compact and rake to level, each incremental lift until you reach an area slightly higher than the surrounding pavement.
• Compact finished area using vibration plates or rollers working from the outside edges in making sure to compact in all directions of the patch.
• Apply hot sealant to seal seams.

Your finished product will be structurally sound and water tight.

Filling asphalt cracks in your driveway or pavement surface will be a very important part of extending the life of your asphalt surface.

The most important reason to maintain the cracks is because you don’t want moisture to penetrate under the asphalt surface. If water penetrates the crack and seeps under the asphalt surface, this almost always creates a soft spot whcih creates a pot hole. And if you live where the temperatures create ground freezing, then this moisture under the asphalt surface will freeze and push the pavement up. All of these conditions can be prevented by practicing good maintenance and keeping cracks filled as they occur.

“Singular” cracks occur naturally as the ground moves and as the asphalt ages. “Alligatored” cracks are signs of asphalt deterioration typically from lack of maintenance.

Cleaning the cracks prior to crackfilling is a crucial part of the crackfilling process. If the cracks are not cleaned, the filler won’t stay in place. A professional will never use a pressure washer to clean cracks as all this does is “push” water deep under the asphalt surface which can potentially soften the area and cause deterioration to your pavement.

Contact Rogers Pavement Maintenance in Cincinnati (513-791-9001) to obtain a bid to have your pavement surface professionally crackfilled.

 

New construction paving and  site-development

• This type of paving requires engineering, design and usually blueprints that layout the site, and detailed specifications required to complete the project. Most new construction starts with a plan upon which all phases of construction will be based and bid. The plan will include all specifications of mixes and materials required, permits, surveys, and a detailed site plan. The paving work will generally require prior excavation and grading of the site to prepare for installation of all base gravel. The subgrade conditions will be checked and verified at all phases. Once all subgrade and base conditions are installed the paving will start. This requires installation of base asphalt followed by an additional layer of surface asphalt.

Complete paving re-construction

• This type of paving requires excavation of deteriorated asphalt and installation of new. Excavation can be performed with many different types of equipment including, skidsteers, backhoes, front-end loaders, etc. This excavation process can also be done by milling or pulverizing the existing asphalt and hauling it off site. In most cases the asphalt is removed from site by loading it into dump trucks which haul it to an asphalt plant where it is stockpiled and later recycled into new asphalt material. This process may be required if the current conditions are severe enough that new asphalt cannot be installed over existing or if there is obvious subgrade failure. All subgrades can be verified and corrected after excavation of asphalt is completed. Paving or resurfacing can be started once all basework has been checked, regraded and compacted. This requires a proof roll to check for softness and if necessary, additional gravel installed to strengthen. Paving for commercial applications is generally installed in separate lifts consisting of #301 base asphalt and #404 or #402 surface asphalt. These lifts or layers are installed using a machine called a paver which lays the material down on the prepared base. The paver is operated by workers who set the proper depth of asphalt and drive it as the asphalt is supplied from dump trucks. The material is dumped into the hopper which mechanically feeds it through and out the bottom of the machine. Skilled workers will rake areas as needed and roll the asphalt to compact it to the proper density. This process requires teamwork and several skilled operators who must constantly work in sync with one another to achieve a smooth continuous finished job.

Overlay resurfacing re-cap

• Similar to the paving as detailed above, this method typically only requires one layer of asphalt installed. The surface asphalt is laid over existing pavement. There is usually a lot less excavation required. Typically only at adjoining surfaces the asphalt is removed or milled down to allow for level transitions after resurfacing. This minimal excavation can be completed by machines which can cut out, mill or grind the old surface. The material is swept up, loaded, and hauled from the site. The existing pavement can be thoroughly cleaned and in most cases a liquid binder known as tack is applied to the surface. This tack will help with the adhesion of the new asphalt material being installed. The average overlay resurfacing project is put down at 2? in depth and if necessary a level course can be installed prior to even out any low spots. As with all contractor paving, the existing pavement should be checked for any failures or damage and corrected as needed, prior to resurfacing.